Altesse Calatrava (342100)

The Universal Genève Altesse ref. 342100 stands out for its ultra-thin white gold case and elegant, minimalist design. It feels light and refined on the wrist. Its manual-wind movement keeps the watch slim and reliable. Collectors value it for its subtle textures, vintage charm, and quiet luxury appeal.

In terms of design, the ref. 342100 keeps the classic Calatrava-style layout but adds more character. The case is typically a 33mm ultra-thin 18K white gold case, only about 5mm thick, which gives it a very refined wrist presence . The dial varies between clean linen textures and more decorative “bark” or engraved finishes, which catch light differently and add depth without breaking the minimalist style. Applied baton markers and slim stick hands keep the look elegant and balanced. The crystal is usually acrylic, slightly domed, which softens the overall appearance. It is usually paired with a simple leather strap, letting the white gold case and dial texture do most of the visual work.

Inside, the ref. 342100 often uses a manual-wind movement such as the Universal Genève Calibre 1-42, a very thin and straightforward time-only movement . This movement focuses on slimness and reliability rather than complications, which fits the watch’s dress purpose. It winds smoothly and keeps good time when serviced, and its thin construction is what allows the case to stay so elegant. While not highly decorated, it reflects Universal Genève’s strong technical capability in producing compact, efficient calibers during that era.

Historically, the ref. 342100 comes from the early 1970s, around 1973, during a period when ultra-thin dress watches were highly popular . It belongs to the broader Altesse / Golden Shadow family, which focused on slim luxury pieces rather than sporty or complicated watches. The “Calatrava” label is informal, used by collectors to describe its minimalist round design rather than an official model name. Today, this reference stands out because of its combination of white gold case, ultra-thin profile, and textured dial variants, making it more interesting than a standard plain-dial dress watch while still staying understated.

The watch appears in excellent condition. The case show light surface marks from careful wear. The bezel, dial, and crystal look clean, sharp, and free from noticeable damage.

What do the different grading scores mean?

• BN 9.9: Brand new and unworn, with no signs of use.
• UN 9.5: Like new and unworn, but may lack original packaging or materials such as the box, links, tags, or bezel protector.
• LN 9.0: Like new and unworn, but only includes the watch without papers, box, or accessories.
• MT 8.5: Mint condition, lightly used with minor surface scratches or wear. Unpolished.
• VG 8.0: Moderately used, with scratches and one or two nicks on the case or crystal. Shows signs of polishing. The bracelet remains snug with minimal wear.
• GD 7.5: Shows signs of daily wear but is not abused, with noticeable polishing on the case. The bracelet shows clear signs of daily wear.

Watches with a rating below GD 7.5 are not listed for bidding to ensure that only high-quality timepieces are available to our members.