Aquanaut (5065A-001)

Retaining the traditionally sporty dial of the collection but receiving a healthy upsize and an exciting exhibition back, the 5065A represents a sweet spot in the timeline of the Aquanaut, especially for those looking for a causal aesthetic in the luxury space.

The present reference 5065A, released in 1998, represents the second generation of the stainless steel Aquanaut and features numerous upgrades over the first, reference 5060A, launched just a year earlier. Among these upgrades, two compete to be the most celebrated among collectors. First is the more contemporary "Jumbo" 38 mm diameter, 3 mm larger than its predecessor, even though both generations share the same sleek height of 8 mm. Second is the sapphire case back in place of a solid one, which puts the Patek Philippe calibre 315 SC on display in all its Geneva Seal goodness. This power couple of updates may lead the uninitiated to believe that "newer is always better", until they find that many collectors prefer the 5065A over its successor, the reference 5167A, as well. Although the latter has an even more contemporary size, its embossed dial sacrifices three-dimensionality for a satin sunburst finish, making for an elegant and dressy façade which strays from the sporty and casual aesthetic of previous generations. The high peaks, deep throughs, and matte finish of the embossed dial in the first two generations are also successfully mimicked by their rubber straps – which accompanies the present example instead of the arguably less interesting steel bracelet, resulting in a more cohesive design. It almost looks as if the strap runs through the case and doubles as the dial!

The dial, hands, and movement appear flawless. The case and clasp were lightly refinished at Watch Unify, though this is not conspicuous. There are no visible scratches on the case, and the clasp exhibits only hairline scratches not visible at arm's length. The rubber strap has been cut to fit a maximum wrist circumference of 17 cm and is in excellent condition; it is pliant, making for comfortable wear, and devoid of cracks.

What do the different grading scores mean?

• BN 9.9: Brand new and unworn, with no signs of use.
• UN 9.5: Like new and unworn, but may lack original packaging or materials such as the box, links, tags, or bezel protector.
• LN 9.0: Like new and unworn, but only includes the watch without papers, box, or accessories.
• MT 8.5: Mint condition, lightly used with minor surface scratches or wear. Unpolished.
• VG 8.0: Moderately used, with scratches and one or two nicks on the case or crystal. Shows signs of polishing. The bracelet remains snug with minimal wear.
• GD 7.5: Shows signs of daily wear but is not abused, with noticeable polishing on the case. The bracelet shows clear signs of daily wear.

Watches with a rating below GD 7.5 are not listed for bidding to ensure that only high-quality timepieces are available to our members.