Vintage (BR123 95 SC)

With its traditional form but contemporary colourway, the blacked-out Bell & Ross Vintage is a bold but beautiful attempt at blending the past and present in an industry whose players tend to fall into either camp - traditional or contemporary - in fear of muddying their identity.

Bell & Ross are known for their aviation-style wristwatches. While most of these sport a square case with oversized screws at the corners to mimic aircraft instrument panels, the Vintage collection, instead, draws inspiration from an instrument attached not to the cockpit but to the wrist of the pilot, that is, the wristwatch, specifically the German fliegeruhr (German for "pilot's watch") of WWII. Perhaps it is the French brand's wonderful way of reminding us to let bygones be bygones.

The present variant features a stainless steel case whose black PVD treatment not only prevents reflections, which would be dangerous in the cockpit, but also improves scratch resistance, probably explaining why the example is so pristine. The dial layout is satisfyingly symmetrical, with the sub-seconds and date window at 6 o'clock, and would be highly legible if not for the blacked-out colourway, which makes for a rather ironic and humorous wear; perfect for lovers of streetwear or whom do not take themselves too seriously. The all-black aesthetic also tones down the wrist presence that would otherwise be quite large due to the 41 mm case diameter and narrow bezel, making the watch a handsome, albeit masculine, wear even for smaller wrists.

The case and buckle have never been refinished and, along with the dial and hands, appear flawless. The original rubber strap remains in excellent condition, pliant, and comfortable.

What do the different grading scores mean?

• BN 9.9: Brand new and unworn, with no signs of use.
• UN 9.5: Like new and unworn, but may lack original packaging or materials such as the box, links, tags, or bezel protector.
• LN 9.0: Like new and unworn, but only includes the watch without papers, box, or accessories.
• MT 8.5: Mint condition, lightly used with minor surface scratches or wear. Unpolished.
• VG 8.0: Moderately used, with scratches and one or two nicks on the case or crystal. Shows signs of polishing. The bracelet remains snug with minimal wear.
• GD 7.5: Shows signs of daily wear but is not abused, with noticeable polishing on the case. The bracelet shows clear signs of daily wear.

Watches with a rating below GD 7.5 are not listed for bidding to ensure that only high-quality timepieces are available to our members.